With an amazing view, five-star service and those famous men’s toilets, Felix at The Peninsula is a well-known restaurant. I had eaten there a couple times over the years and was thrilled at the prospect of a return visit to sample the contemporary cuisine of the new executive chef Ashton Hall.

The Felix Experience
The a la carte menu is filled with delicious sounding dishes such as the popular Tuna Sashimi, Chorizo and Black Truffle starter, while Prawn Cracker Crusted Sea Bass, and Porcetta Wrapped Lamb are two of the tempting mains.

However, when there is a tasting or degustation menu option available I more often then not choose this option because I feel it is an expression of the chef’s creative potential. So my dining partner and I went for The Felix Experience, a six-course tasting menu.

Let’s Begin
Being big eaters we snuck in a serving of Oysters Two Ways from the al a carte menu first. One oyster was served fresh with chilli and cucumber balls, and the other was done in a tempura style with tamarind sorbet. The small oysters were tasty and I enjoyed the spice but because of its tendency to overpower the flavour of the oyster I wondered was it necessary. The tamarind sorbet was interesting and a nice lift.

The first dish from the tasting menu was Sea Urchin Roe, Duck Egg, Vodka Cream. As you may imagine this was a rich, yolky experience that I thoroughly enjoyed. Served in the egg shell the combination of the roe and the egg made it comfort food home-cooking meets adult sophistication. It was uber creamy and yummy. The presentation was delightful.

Towards Balance
Crispy Goat Cheese, Roasted Beet, Asian Pear was enjoyed next. A deep-fried spring roll was the crunchy vehicle that delivered the goat’s cheese, adding crunch without altering the flavour. It paired perfectly with the pear and the beetroot was a good counter to the other flavours. This dish felt a little safe creatively but the flavours worked well and again the plating was artistic.

Next was Lobster, Chick Pea, Tarragon, Spiced Cucumber. This was a playful dish of contrasting flavours – bland of the chick pea, the spiciness of the cucumber and the sweetness of the lobster. The lobster had a wonderful flavour but just when we were enjoying it the taste became overpowered by the cucumber. When I asked the chef later whether the balance was out of kilter on purpose he explained that like the oysters the cucumber should cool the heat and this dish should be eaten a certain way that the wait staff should have explained (but didn’t). There was either a lack of communication from the chef to the wait staff to the table, or there was just too much chilli…impossible to tell post dining.

The final savoury course was Pigeon, Black Truffle, Baby Turnip. The truffle added depth and character to the dish and the pigeon was rich, with almost a gamey quality. We enjoyed this dish the most because of its strength, simplicity, and for the perfect balance of flavours.

A beautiful, rich red Raspberry-Meyer Lemon Soda was served next. Delicious!

Dessert was Dark Chocolate, Mint, Macadamia Nut. Great crunch, lovely presentation, but a tad too sweet for this ultra dark chocolate lover.

Regular Clientele
The tasting menu comes with wine pairing suggestions, a good option for the lazy diner or the wine novice. Standouts for us were the Pisa Range Pinot Noir with the pigeon, and Craneford Sparkling Shiraz with the dessert.

Overall, we enjoyed the tasting menu, which is being changed every few weeks in order to attract a regular local clientele. I would go back as I would like to sample some more of the chef’s creations as I felt I had only dipped my toe into his culinary pool.

Dramatic Inside and Out
The restaurant is named after Felix M Bieger, a 40-year veteran of The Peninsula Hotels and three time GM.

The Philippe Starck designed interior has a sense of the theatrical about it, with high ceilings, large spaces between tables, and the lit liquid-effect wall and long bar. The stunning view and the food is the entertainment and the diners are the audience.

The combination of the dramatic space and view enhances the dining experience and plays a role in wanting to return.

About the Chef
A third generation chef Hall said, “I literally grew up in the kitchen, and was taught at a very young age the importance of using the best available local ingredients whenever possible.”

He trained under Jean-Georges Vongerichten for four years, and also held senior positions in the kitchen at many of Vongerichten’s restaurants.

by Vicki Williams
May 2008

Felix
28F, The Peninsula Hong Kong
Salisbury Road, Kowloon, Hong Kong, SAR
Tel: 2315 3188