The restaurant Aspasia is named after the Greek beauty who unlike most women of her time (5th Century) was highly educated, consorted with leaders and mixed with some the greatest minds of her generation. She was innovative and independent. Likewise the restaurant stands out from the crowd with its innovative Italian haute cuisine in eclectic, yet elegant surrounds.

The food is the creation of Roland Schuller, who was previously Executive Chef on the luxury yacht, Christina O, and has worked at top European restaurants, including Don Alfonso 1890. He was also the man behind Hong Kong restaurants Chez Roland and Roland's Terrace.

The Food
Is it art, is it beautifully-presented food, or is it edible art? It is hard to tell. One thing is for sure, the food at Aspasia is exceptional.

At a recent dinner my dining companion and I opted for the five-course tasting menu, which is very reasonably priced. The tasting menu changes every two to three weeks, while the extensive and tempting al a carte menu changes inline with the seasons.

Our gastronomic adventure began with Raw Scampi alla Aspasia with Avocado Peach Salad and Fresh Sea Urchin Gazpacho. This dish’s presentation took my breath away and I almost did not want to eat it. I am glad I did, it tasted even more divine then it looked. Whisper thin slices of scampi were lifted high by the textural delights of peach, avocado and toasted pine nuts, and sea urchin that was so fresh I felt suddenly transported to the beach, with the salty scent of the ocean in the air. The gazpacho was creatively served in the urchin shell and was refreshing and light due to the addition of tomato. This dish definitely had the wow factor.

Zucchini Flower Soup with Italian Clams and Deep Fried Baby Squid was next. I found the soup to be lacking in flavour and depth, however my dining companion thought that it was good and enjoyed the astringency of the broth combined with the seafood.  

This was followed by a choice of Rock Fish Linguine with Black Olives, Capers and Chanterelle Mushrooms; or Foie Gras Risotto with Artichokes. We ordered one of each to share – the friendly wait staff expertly divided the dishes for us. The pasta was perfectly cooked, and the fish and mushrooms kept the dish interesting, although it was slightly overseasoned. The divinely rich risotto was indulgence on a fork with the foie gras and artichokes providing the right level of texture contrast.

Main choices were Fresh Daily Fish served with Tomato Combination and Basil Infusion, or Australian Lamb Chop with Orange Zest and Pecorino Cheese. The Seabass was served with six different types of tomatoes, which all had different flavours, colours and textures. This dish made us both stop and think about food, which we often become complacent about. This simple main became dramatic through the use of the different tomato varieties.

The breaded lamb chop was given depth from the orange zest and again was artfully presented. It was the least favourite choice of the night, but it was still a quality dish that faded into the background due to the outstanding items we had indulged in that evening.

Dessert was Marscarpone Millefeuille with Fresh Berries and Hazelnut Ice-cream. The berries were a perfect combination of sweet and tart that left my cheeks tingling with delight.

We also indulged in a Roasted Porcini Mushroom with Blueberries and Rocket Salad, from the al a carte menu. I was excited about the prospect of the combination of sweet blueberries with peppery rocket and I was not disappointed. Each of the ingredients merged skillfully with each other, yet retained their individual flavours. The dressing, which includes porcini and sundried tomato, supported the salad perfectly.

If this restaurant was in a more central locale I believe that it would be booked for months in advance. This was a primo decadent dining experience.

The Décor
The décor features an unusual, yet refined mix of regal armchairs in distressed leather and velvet, vintage pieces, leather sofas, and chandeliers.

Original Italian artwork from Milan’s Miniaci Gallery is scattered throughout and is for sale.

Ambiance
The is fun fine-dining

Service
The staff are attentive and courteous, and well versed in the menu options.

Would I come back?
In a heartbeat. Roland Schuller is a culinary master.

Bits n Bites
The bread is freshly baked and tempting. Diners are also given thin bread sticks with three dips (cucumber, chickpea, and red bell pepper) served in test tubes!

There are two wines lists – one by the bottle and one by the glass with a focus on Italian wines.

Aspasia is located on the first floor of The Luxe Manor, 39 Kimberley Road, TST. Tel: 3763 8800 www.aspasia.com.hk

by Vicki Williams
vicki@womguide.com