On a recent trip to Shanghai I decided to dine at three hotel restaurants that are relatively new that have Hong Kong connections. Each offers the diner a different experience and each is a restaurant that I would return to again. I highlight those dishes that I found memorable and give you some details on the chefs behind them, as well as a few details on each hotel.

Ciao @ Langham

First on the list was Italian restaurant, Ciao Dining Room, at the art-deco hotel, The Langham, Yangtze Boutique. Heading the kitchen is the hotel's executive chef, Italian native, Michele Antonio Totaro. Totaro has a strong background having been the executive chef at Michelin-starred Don Alfonso in Macau, as well as working at well-known Italian restaurants in Hong Kong and Los Angeles. 

The a la carte menu reflects the chef's Italian roots, all the classics are represented, yet the dishes are given a fresh interpretation and it is a menu that I love because every single dish sounds tempting. The chef will also put together a tasting menu or a vegetarian menu if requested.

Of the five savoury dishes I tried, three stood out. The beautifully-plated cold appetiser, Scampi with Fruit and Aged Balsamic that combined perfectly cooked, flavourful scampi with rock-melon (two levels of ripeness), kiwi and orange. The sweetness of the fruit complemented the seafood, while the vinegar balanced the dish with its sour notes. I also enjoyed that each bite could be a different experience depending on which fruit(s) you combined with the scampi.

Not to be missed is the Potato Soup with Goose Liver. A homey potato soup with good flavour is given the decadent treatment by the addition of the liver, which gives body and intensity to the dish when it is combined, yet does not overwhelm the more delicate potato flavour. It left me wanting more.

Further creativity was seen in the main course of Veal Loin with Roasted Potato, Eggplant and Cocoa. The cocoa had a simultaneous sweet and bitter taste that was intriguing and the aftertaste was a balance of the two. An inventive, and memorable dish that stimulated my mind, excited my palate, and satisfied my belly.

The hotel itself was originally built in 1934, and has been lovingly and stylishly given a new lease of art-deco life by Langham. The art-deco elements are to be found everywhere, even down to the air-conditioning vents. The boutique hotel also has a warm and inviting ambience and because of its small size has a distinct feeling of "this is home"; the rooms have sweet balconies and large, luxurious bathrooms.

Sir Elly's @ The Pen

Named after Sir Michael Kadoorie's grandfather, Sir Elly's at The Peninsula only opened on 21 November, and is the hotel's fine-dining Modern European restaurant. Situated on the top two floors of the hotel, Sir Elly's features a large bar area, the main dining room, an outdoor terrace and a number of private rooms, one with its own terrace. With its stunning views of The Bund it is already becoming the talk of the town. 

The kitchen is headed by French chef, Arnaud Berthelier, who has worked in eight Michelin-starred restaurants and has twice been a James Beard nominee.

I sampled a six-course media preview menu and the three dishes that stood out were: "Oysters" - Kumamoto Oyster, Arugula Gelee, Fennel Lemongrass Espuma, Pickled Granny Smith; "Duck Breast" - A L'unilateral, Navy Bean and Marzipan Puree, Figs, Almonds; and "Noir" - Crispy Chocolate Mousse, Manjari Taffe, Coffee Ice Cream (the pastry chef was formally with Amber). Of those the duck was the most interesting, the breast had been mostly cooked on the skin side so it was ultra crispy, which contrasted with the flesh and the puree; and all the flavours worked in harmony. 

As the only new build on The Bund in 60 years and the return of the Kadoorie family to Shanghai everything about this art-deco hotel oozes opulence. It is clear that no expense has been spared and it is quickly becoming the grand dame of Shanghai once more.

Jing'An @ The PuLi

The Hong Kong connection for The PuLi's restaurant, Jing'An, is Dane Clouston. Formally the creative talent behind Opia and one of my favourite chefs, Clouston has put his unique stamp on the Shanghai dining scene achieving rave reviews and five-star ratings from the city's food writers.

Those familiar with Clouston's cuisine will recognise the essence behind some of the dishes; for me what was exciting was that although some dishes were familiar they had developed and matured much like the chef himself, who is still young at 29. For example, his dish Foie Gras and Smoked Chocolate (served with a potato wafer) takes all that was good about his foie gras with milk chocolate mousse and enhances it, with the change from the mousse to the smoked chocolate ice cream (made by Clouston) giving the dish a flavour depth that was previously missing, and the smokiness acts as a bridge between the savoury and sweet. It also had his signature of different temperatures and tastes on the plate and this dish was sweet, salty, smokey, hot, cold, soft and crunchy.

Also on the menu is Pastrami of Salmon with Beetroot and Rye Wafer (with pieces of duck ham that Clouston makes, pictured below), Twice Cooked Octopus and Skordalia, Scallops with Morels and Brussel Sprout, Slow Roasted Wagyu with Butternut and Mushroom, and Five Spice Panna Cotta with Roasted Pineapple. 

While I thoroughly enjoyed all the dishes the standout for me was the octopus that at first glance seems a simple dish until you taste it; for me another Clouston signature. The octopus is cooked for 4-5 hours in olive oil sous vide at low temperatures with olive oil, lemon rind and garlic and then lightly pan fried before serving, resulting in octopus that is incredibly tender. The skordalia is Clouston's take on the classic but he makes it with white beans and seasons it with black olive oil (home made by drying kalamata olives and then blending it with good olive oil) fresh garlic, lemon juice, thyme, black pepper and a sprinkle of smoked paprika. This dish was so good I can still taste it.

When I reviewed Opia over two years ago I said of Clouston's food, "His food is inspired, beautifully presented, and defined by daring and creative experimentation with flavours and textures. It is sublime and uber creative. It is precise and structured, yet edgy and bold. It is a must-try if you want to shake up your palate and discover unique combinations that merge to produce something unexpected and truly memorable." A statement that is true of his food at Jing'An, perhaps even more so; if he was still in Hong Kong, Clouston would be a Michelin-star chef. Diners in Shanghai are lucky to have such a talented chef.

The PuLi Hotel and Spa has been designed to give guests the feeling of being in a luxury resort and all the contemporary and striking design touches attempt to give the guest a sense of relaxation and serenity. 

All three hotels are different and each has its own unique attributes so if you are looking for a place to stay it really is a matter of personal choice which hotel is the best for you. One thing is for sure, you will be well fed which ever of the three you decide on. Each hotel mentioned has been hyperlinked to the hotel's website to give you more insight into each. 

Images: Homepage image courtesy of The Peninsula, Shanghai.