HOME » Hot Features » Book Reviews » Artisan Bread by Gregoire Michaud
Artisan Bread by Gregoire Michaud hopes to bring back the passion, art and science of producing crusty and flavourful bread - Artisan bread.
The comprehensive book includes information on understanding the character of wheat, the flour and the ferments, through to baking techniques and wide variety of recipes. In essence all you need to become an artisan baker. The book was published in May 2008.
About the Author
Artisan baker and patissier, Gregoire Michaud, is currently the pastry chef at the Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong. Michaud trained in Switzerland and has worked around the world including the Regent Hong Kong, the Beau-Rivage, Biloxi and the Broadmoor Colorado Springs amongst others. He has been working for Four Seasons for seven years (Dublin, the Maldives, Hong Kong), and in 2003 obtained a Hotel Management Degree from the Ecole Hoteliere de Lausanne.
He is also a regular participant of WOM Guide's Ask a Chef.

Pros
The book is engagingly informative, for example the reader learns how even the choice of grain seeds to be planted by the farmer can impact the bread flour and of course, the finished bread. The first part of the book explains all you need to know about grains, wheat and the associated science. It also discusses the science of kneading, shaping, proofing, cutting and baking. Knowing the science is vital to the art of bread making.

Overall, it gives the reader a deeper appreciation of bread and what it takes to make a staple food that is often taken for granted. Even the most delicious bread you can't get enough of is often overlooked while it is hurriedly being devoured. Rarely as diners do we compliment the pastry chef for his efforts.
Bakers will be excited by the variety of recipes (over 50) - Natural Starter Breads, Special Breads, Savoury Breads, Sweet Breads, and Croissants and Danishes. From Old Fashioned Baguette to grilled Portobello Mushroom Country Bread, and Figs and Anis Bread, through to gluten-free Banana and Walnut Bread. The recipes only have a few steps, which gives a feeling of achievability for the novice baker.

Michaud also includes his own hints and suggestions with each recipe, at times even mentioning the best accompaniments for the bread, such as Roquefort blue cheese and caramelised pears to be served with the Chocolate and Cranberry Bread. There is also a glossary of terms.
Mouthwatering images of finished breads, and the step-by-step photos throughout the book are fantastically helpful.
Cons
Michaud does mention the increasing numbers of people with a gluten intolerance, explaining why it happens and recommending those with an Artisan bakery to offer gluten-free bread, but only provides one gluten-free recipe in the book. I spoke to him about this and he said, "The importance of gluten-free has become huge, especially in the US. Thus, from my point of view, a whole book should be dedicated to gluten-free, with a dietetic chapter, scientific explanations and of course many recipes from bread, to pizza base, passing by muffins, cookies, pastas and other treats. Basically, in Artisan Bread, I wanted to focus on traditional bread, following the way of authentic baking and the gluten-free recipe that I added was really to offer a good alternative."

A lot of the recipes ask that the steam exhaust be open during baking. This is not a common feature in most home ovens and an alternative suggestion would have been helpful. To help all of you I contacted Michaud to ask him about this and he said, "Basically, the purpose of having a steam exhaust on an oven is to retain the steam allowing the bread to develop to its full size before a hard crust starts to form, at which point the exhaust would have to be open to achieve the crispiest crust possible. At home, it depends on the oven; some ovens have a very good insulation and thus, retention of steam and some less. What I'd do with a regular home oven is to place an half-inch thick heat resistant baking stone on the bottom of the oven and let it heat together with the oven. Then place your bread directly on the stone (using a simple floured wooden board will do) and spray some water in the oven, quickly closing the door afterwards. Once the volume is achieved, according to the time mentioned in the book, you can slightly open the oven's door and keep it that way using a spoon or any tool to let the steam/humidity out of the oven, until the bread is fully baked." He suggests a clay baking stone for best results.
Reasons to Buy
In addition to it being an informative and interesting reference guide (see pros above and praise below), the book is bilingual, with both Chinese and English text.
High Praise, More Info, Where to Buy
"So much more than a book, you are placing an important stone in the edifice of our profession. You are leaving your mark, a trail that others can follow. In writing this book, you are continuing the noble tradition of our forefathers by transmitting their precious saviour-fare," says Bakery World Champion, Xavier Honorin, in his forward to the book.
The South China Morning Post says of the book, "It's a compendium of helpful tips and advice anyone who bakes will need."
The website for the World Association of Chef's Societies says, "This complete manual of artisan baking that is Artisan Bread is destined to any passionate baker; from the novice to the professional. Great breads will never age - these recipes were used hundreds of year ago and they will still be used by passionate bakers a hundred years later."
The book can be ordered online at Michaud's website http://gregoire.michaud.net/.
WOM guide