Italian cuisine has a long and rich history and can trace its roots back to at least the 4th century. Like French cuisine its evolution has been shaped by geographical and political events. Today the cuisine can be enjoyed in almost every country and is the firm favourite of many. WOM takes a look at Italian cuisine through the eyes of three of Hong Kong's leading Italian chefs, who also let you into the secret of perfect pasta.

The Cuisine's Evolution

Italian cuisine is considered one the oldest in Europe. According to food historians the cuisine was originally derived from Greek traditions, which derived its traditions from "Oriental" cuisine.

It has also been noted that the Italians perfected the cuisine of its origins. "Choose any ordinary Italian dish and it is the replica of one that was once enjoyed by gourmands in ancient Rome." - The Concise Larousse Gastronomique (2003 edition).

The country's fragmentation "did not prevent it from being the cradle of the Renaissance in the arts, including the culinary ones. While the civilisations of France and Spain were still in bud, Italy was already flowering." - The Oxford Companion to Food, Alan Davidson, Second Edition 2006. 

The first printed cookery book was that of Bartolomeo Platina in 1475, which was preceded by numerous important manuscripts. For example, the manuscripts of cook Maestro Martino, who had already begun to identify regional differences in the cuisine and the role of pasta in feasts of Italian nobility. Martino also focused his recipes on creating dishes that brought out the flavour of a single ingredient carefully seasoned. A trait that remains at the heart of the cuisine today.

In his book, L'Apicio Moderno (1790) Francesco Leonardi includes a recipe for tomato sauce (Sugo di Pomodoro) that is still used.

Modern Italian

According to chef de cuisine of Grissini, Marco Torre, modern Italian cuisine is now being influenced by Asian cuisines and techniques. "An example of a new technique is gellifying agents like agar agar, which has been used in Asia for a long time, yet only began to appear in Italian recipes a few years ago." He mentions ginger, lemongrass, seaweed, and raw fish as examples of Asian ingredients being used in modern Italian cuisine. 

For Fabrizio Napolitano, executive chef, Goccia Ristorante e Bar, modern Italian cuisine involves striking a balance between traditional authenticity and innovation. "For example, our cannelloni is made of parmesan cheese and stuffed with eggplant mousse, tomato mousse and basil mousse. Cannelloni was born as a classic pasta dish and we have kept the traditional shape but have added innovation through the stuffing and serving it as an appetiser."

Characteristics & Key Ingredients

Having spent almost a year travelling around Italy the thing that struck me most about the food was the simplicity of the cuisine. There is an inherent understanding that as long as you begin with quality seasonal ingredients and treat them with respect you don't need to do much in the way of embellishment to create a wonderful meal. I found it inspiring.

Torre feels similar, for him the characteristics of the cuisine are authenticity and simplicity. "I would say mainly simplicity because Italian cuisine is first based on the product or ingredient itself, and it should be kept original."

Napolitano believes that the characteristics of the cuisine are a result of the country's past. "Italian cuisine is marked by its wonderful varieties of food and raw ingredients created by Italy's historical heritage and geological fragmentation." 

While there are key differences in the dishes eaten in the various regions of Italy the classic ingredients of the cuisine are used throughout the country.

Napolitano says, "The most important are extra virgin olive oil, pasta and cheese. Even though Italian cuisine is extremely regional these products prevail in each area with different flavours and shapes."

Torre says for him the ingredients he associates most with the cuisine are tomatoes and basil. 

Luca Signoretti, Italian chef, Sabatini Ristorante Italiano, agrees with both chefs, but adds the use of Mediterranean fish to the typical ingredients. "For me the key defining feature of the cuisine is the freshness of the ingredients."

The use of herbs is also key, especially oregano, thyme, sage, rosemary and parsley, and the previously mentioned basil.

Chef's Favourites

What would these three chefs serve when entertaining friends at home?

"Pasta! It is very convivial, easy to share and is appreciated by everyone," enthuses Napolitano. He adds that he prefers simple sauces such as tomato and basil, or garlic, oil and dried chilli. "These are very simple sauces but remind me a lot of Italy, they might seem simple to make but I can tell you, simple dishes are the most difficult to make."

Signoretti would also serve pasta, "I would serve spaghetti, with a tomato sauce and basil."

While Torres says that one of his favourite dishes to prepare at home is Baked Mediterranean Deep Water Sea Bass with Cherry Tomatoes, Potatoes, Capers and Taggiasca Olives.

Perfect Pasta

While most of us know that pasta should be al dente (firm to the bite) how do the professionals achieve this ideal state and how can you tell when it is al dente?

"You need to find the correct amount of cooking time so that the pasta still has the somewhat crunchy feeling but the centre should not be white in colour," explains Torres.

Torres adds that the pasta must be cooked in abundant salted water and for the last two minutes should be cooked in the serving sauce. "One important point is to finish with a good quality raw extra virgin olive oil just before serving."

Napolitano mostly agrees with Torres. "There are just a few simple rules for perfect pasta: add salt into the water, bring the water to a rolling boil, ideally, the water shouldn't stop boiling when you add the pasta. Undercook it slightly, and finish cooking it to perfection while in the skillet with your favourite sauce."

Top Nine Italian Restaurants

The following restaurants received the highest score out of 10 (food-only rating) in WOM Guide 2009, as voted by members.

Da Domencio (9), Sabatini (9), Aspasia (8), Gaia Ristorante (8), Grissini (8), The Mistral (8), Nicholini's (8), Rughetta Ristorante (8), Va Bene (8)

Image Credit: Sabatini:Homepage, 1, 5; Goccia: 2, 3; Grisini:4,6