Dai Pai Dongs, literally translated as "large license stalls", are street food stalls that the Government licensed to retired civil servants to operate in the 1950s. These licenses are larger in size than the traditional food licenses, thus the name. 

They are characterised by flimsy stools, chopstick jars on foldable tables, overhead fans, and most importantly, super-power stoves that add "wok hei" to the otherwise ordinary Chinese dishes. 

Al Fresco Dining, Chinese Style

Technically, each Dai Pai Dong (DPD) license only allows for two tables and eight stools in front of the stall. Of course, nobody pays attention to that and each stall will fit in as many diners as the pavement allows, often spilling into the street.

One has to eat at a DPD to understand how impossibly hot it is to eat under big fans, and it is best not to think about how the dishes are "rinsed" on site, although ironically, there has not been a case of food poisoning associated with these food stalls in at least the past three years! 

However, despite the lack of air-conditioning and the poor hygiene level, many people grew up on DPD food, such as congee and yau cha kwai (deep-fried dough) for breakfast, noodles with beef briskets and wontons for lunch, and stir-fries with a bottle of beer for dinner. 

The "Wok Hei"

You might wonder what is so special about the food at DPDs. Aside from the fact that they are cheap - although not really that cheap these days - it is the "wok hei" that people are after. 

On the topic of wok hei, Chef Tak from Lung King Heen explains that this is achieved by stir-frying the ingredients at very high heat very quickly, locking in the essence and juice of the ingredients. In addition, since presentation is the last thing on the owners' mind at DPDs, all the dishes are served literally right from the wok with superb wok hei. 

Lunch in Central

Of the 28 DPDs remaining, there are 10 licenses in Central. They are densely populated along or near Stanley Street. Most of them specialise in breakfast and lunch, and are usually closed by early evening. The smell of freshly-brewed coffee and milk tea over charcoal stoves fills the air before most begin their day. By mid-day, hungry patrons are lining up for a plate of rice with BBQ pork. A few also sneak in for an egg and luncheon meat sandwich at around 4 o'clock. There seems to be an understanding between the owners and the patrons who have been regulars for years, if not decades.

Mr Yiu from Yue Hing used to work in a Japanese restaurant and applies the same ways when it comes to running his stall; Mr Lam from Sing Kee boasts that he only chooses hotel-grade ingredients. 

Each stall has its own specialties, and its own story. The most famous, of course, is Lan Fong Yuen, for its Hong Kong-styled milk tea filtered through silk stockings.

Dinner in Sham Shui Po

Sham Shui Po has the most DPDs (14), but because it is not a business district, the stalls here focus more on dinner. Most operate late afternoon, and stay open till around midnight. As a result, many provide stir-fried dishes that go especially well with a cold beer and fresh seafood. Some, such as Glorious Cuisine, have even created fancy plates such as Wasabi Squid and Pan-fried Kobe Beef prepared on the spot, in order to attract more diners. 

For the stalls in this area, the entrepreneurial licensees have rented nearby shops with restaurant licenses, and built glass tanks to display a myriad of seafood for diners to choose from.

There are also particular cuisine specialties, like Keung Kee which specialises in Hakka food, as well as a couple that are similar to the Central stalls, which serve bowls of wonton and beef brisket noodles, such as Hon Fat Noodles.

Quick and Easy

Whether you are looking for a bowl of noodles, a sandie with a generous serving of butter, or a hot dish of stir-fry to be washed down with a few bottles of beer, DPDs provide a quick and easy option for diners to have a casual chomp. 

Find places that you think have good wok hei and spread the word on WOM. Enjoy!

To read the article Are Dai Pai Dongs a Dying Culture? click http://www.womguide.com/hot-features/all-about/dai-pai-dongs-the-future