Most people love French food, there is something almost romantic about the cuisine, and it is often a popular choice when dining on special occasions. The cuisine has a long history and many of the most important chefs, both past and present are French. 

In celebration of Le French May WOM takes a look at French cuisine, its history, and its characteristics. I also talk to three of the city's leading chefs about the cuisine and reveal the top six French restaurants in town as voted by WOM members. 

Historical Highlights

"The French...have surrounded food with so much commentary, learning and connoisseurship as to clothe it in the vestments of civilization itself... Cooking is viewed as a major art form: innovations are celebrated and talked about as though they were phrases in the development of a style of painting or poetry... A meal at a truly great restaurant is a sort of theatre you can eat." Richard Bernstein, The Fragile Glory.

Like many cuisines, French cuisine, was shaped by the country's social, political and geographical developments. While an entire article could easily be devoted to the history of the cuisine I have selected just a few of the most recent influences on its development.

According to The Concise Larousse Gastronomique (2003 edition), the Italians played a key role in changes to the cuisine during the Renaissance, with many master chefs from Italy coming to work in the country. They were instrumental in introducing some of the aromatic herbs that are a feature of the cuisine and taught the French many recipes that have remained in the French culinary repertoire.  

Under the reign of Louis XIV (1638-1715), the habit of having dishes served separately was introduced, although separate courses were not introduced until the mid 19th century. He also introduced the use of silver utensils.

The term "gastronomy" first entered the lexicon under the reign of Louis XV (1710-1774), and quickly became a hot topic among the ruling and elite classes. Discoveries such as stock made from meat juices and deglazing techniques are credited to this period. 

The culinary methods became even more refined under Louis XVI (1754-1793), and according to food historians it was during his rule that the first restaurant was established.

The 18th and 19th centuries saw the further development and refinement of the cuisine and the explosion of restaurants and chefs of note. 

Any discussion of French food history must make mention of chef, restaurateur and writer, Auguste Escoffier (1846-1935), whose culinary career includes modernising and codifying the cuisine, and introducing the hierarchy of kitchen positions that is still in use today. His writings and philosophy continue to inspire many chefs.

Modern French Cuisine

French cuisine has continued to evolve over time and although it has gone through several periods that were referred to as modern, the current modern French cuisine is characterised by lightness. For example using less butter and cream. David Goodridge, chef of Gaddi's, is a fan, "I like modern French cuisine as it is more appealing for its light and fresher tastes. Traditional French cuisine is very heavy and rich."

Didier Rochat, executive chef of La Brasserie, says that today's French chefs are using creative ways to use traditional ingredients and cook classic dishes, while presenting them in a new way. "The dishes look different, yet the taste remains the same, which is important," he says.

Executive sous chef of Café de Paris Soho, Jérôme Billot, gives an almost academic response when asked what he thinks of modern French cuisine. "What is modern French cuisine? Unless the evolution of classical French cuisine.

All chefs, from Varenne and Fernand Point to Ducasse and Robuchon, participated to the evolution of our gastronomy, keeping in mind authenticity and tradition, over the centuries. I believe in those, in search of perfection, who work with their time and make French cuisine as it is today."

Classic Ingredients

The characteristics of a cuisine are heavily influenced by its ingredients. Butter, garlic, aromatic herb combinations (herbes de Provence, bouquet garni, fine herbes), cheese, escargot, frog's legs, foie gras, and pate are just some of the classic French ingredients that spring to mind for me.

For Goodridge foie gras is an ingredient that he most associates with the cuisine. "Without Foie Gras, it will never be a complete French meal."

He also thinks that certain aromas and flavours are quintessential characteristics. "The aroma of the dishes and the distinct flavours are the essentials of classic French cuisine. For aromas, herbs such as rosemary and thyme are of note."

For Billot, the most classic ingredient is butter. "Butter is the most classic, as it is found in almost every classic French recipe. It is as part of our culture as olive oil is for Italian's. Butter is the flavour that makes people wonder, how do they make it so tasty?" He is in fine company with this thought as supposedly Escoffier once said, "What is the cuisine of France? It is butter, butter and more butter."

National French Dishes

The cuisine of France is different from region to region, but there are some regional dishes that have become associated on a national level. These include bouillabaisse, pot-au-feu, cassoulet, ragout, soufflé, Tatin tarts, and mille-feuilles. 

"The dishes I associate the most with classic French cuisine are snails, duck liver, onion soup, lobster bisque, ratatouille, bouillabaisse, crepe Suzette. There are so many dishes that it is hard to name them all," says Rochat.

Goodridge mentions both Bouillabaisse and rustic stews with tomatoes as dishes that are for him typically French.

Chefs at Home

We all know that chefs have little time to cook at home, but what dish could you expect to eat if you were a friend of one of the chefs interviewed? 

"I seldom cook for my friends but if I was going to I would probably do a Daube (red wine beef cheeks stew casserole), or  Vacharin De Mont D'or (a seasonal cheese) with baguette and crispy bread," says Goodridge. 

Rochat says that he has a number of dishes he likes to cook for friends, but when it comes to favourites he says, "I like the creamy potato gratin called Gratin Dauphinois, Ratatouille (it has its origins in the south of France, consisting of vegetables cooked with olive oil, olives and fresh basil from Provence, and Tartiflette, a melted cow's cheese called Reblochon on top of sautéed bacon, potato and onion...yummy."

Billot prefers a classic. "I'll definitely prepare a Bouillabaisse. A beautiful stew, made of fresh fish and shellfish served with a hint of rouille and some toasted bread as a final touch, all paired of course with a very chilled bottle of Rosé Côtes de Provence. This is for me a perfect dish to enjoy with friends."

French Cuisine Myth

There is a certain myth that French food is hard to cook at home, but according to the experts it is not. While there are certain techniques that need to be employed and short cuts is not part of the cuisine, cooking French food is easy...or at least doable.

"I think that if you are not a professional cook with lots of knowledge all the new food you try to cook could take you time to understand, but I don't think that is more difficult to cook a French stew than make sushi or a Russian goulash or Chinese Stuffed Duck. My advice is to read the recipe a few times before you start," explains Rochat.

Goodridge and Billot are more philosophical about it. "Anything in life can be difficult unless you understand it. However some things are worth perseverance," says Goodridge. 

While Billot says, "Cooking French food is not as complicated as most of the people say. The main ingredients to succeed are heart, patience and a good recipe book."

Top Six French Restaurants

The following restaurants received the highest score out of 10 (food-only rating) in WOM Guide 2009, as voted by members.

Gaddi's (9), Caprice (9), L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon (9), Restaurant Petrus (9), Pierre (8), La Terrasse (8)

Image Credit: Homepage, 1, 4, 5 - La Brasserie; 2, 7 - Cafe de Paris; 3, 6 Gaddi's