The spice saffron is the dried stigmas of the saffron crocus and is considered the most expensive spice in the world, and with good reason. To begin it is a risky business that involves planting crocuses that need perfect weather to survive and flower, followed by hundreds of people needed to carefully pluck the stigmas of each flower by hand. There is only a one day window to pick the stigmas and the flowering season only lasts 1-2 weeks. 

It is then dried over a fire where any small mistake could see the whole lot go up in smoke. It takes 50,000 to 70,000 flowers to obtain approximately 450 grams of saffron. Luckily for the end user only a tiny amount of the aromatic spice is needed to add colour and impart a unique flavour to a dish.

History & Myth

Saffron originated in West Asia, particularly Iran, and has been cultivated in Southern Europe since ancient times. Its use in India resulted from the Moghuls bringing it from Iran. It has been cultivated in Kashmir, the source of some of the world's best saffron, since the 3rd century or beyond. Chinese writers have referred to the spice, called 'red flower of Tibet', since the 3rd century. Its use spread to England by the 14th century, with cultivation beginning in the 16th. Today it is mostly cultivated in Spain, Kashmir, India, Iran, Turkey, and China.

The plant is sterile and as it cannot produce seeds reproduction depends on human assistance. Corms, underground bulb-like organs, must be dug up, broken apart, and replanted. A corm survives for only one season but can possibly be broken into cormlets that yield up to ten new plants. 

In addition to being used to impart colour and flavour to food it has also been used as a dye, pigment for painting, and for perfumes. In Imperial Rome is was used to scent public baths and halls. In India it is the official colour of Buddhist robes (although most are dyed with turmeric) and its colour is considered the epitome of beauty.  

Love, sex and saffron tales abound. According to Greek myth, handsome mortal Crocos fell in love with the beautiful nymph Smilax. His feelings were rebuffed by Smilax, and he was turned into a beautiful purple crocus flower. It was thought of as an aphrodisiac. And, Cleopatra was said to use saffron in her baths so that sex would be more pleasurable. Francis Bacon wrote, "it maketh the English sprightly".

Medicinal Properties

Its medicinal properties have been lauded since ancient times and was once thought of as a treatment for almost 100 illnesses, including gastric ailments, wounds, coughs, colic, and scabies. 

Modern medical studies have shown that saffron has anti-carcinogenic, immunomodulating, and antioxidant properties. Current studies have shown promise for saffron as a carer of our eyes - it may protect from retinal stress and effects of bright lights, and slow down macular degeneration. The macular degeneration issue has been receiving a lot of press recently; spice experts suggest six strands per cup of water, not the pinch as reported in the media, to be drunk on a regular basis.

Culinary Uses 

Due to the expensive nature of the spice less expensive substitutes are often used by restaurants, including turmeric - which provides colour but not saffron flavour and should never be used in sweet dishes; and safflower. When buying looks for signs of freshness that include vivid crimson colour, slight moistness, elasticity, and lack of broken-off thread debris. If it has white streaks or light patches it is inferior, and light specks in the powdered form suggests adulteration.

As mentioned only a tiny amount is normally required for culinary purposes, the trick is to ensure even distribution. It can be crushed to a fine powder but it is easier to steep the saffron in hot water - a pinch to a cup is suggested. Quality saffron should expand on contact with the water. Pre-powdered saffron is added directly, although buyer beware as the powdered form is often inferior quality or blended with other ingredients. Store in an air-tight container in a cool dry place, out of the light.

Saffron is used in many cuisines, including Moorish, Mediterranean and Asian. It is an essential ingredient in Provençal Bouillabaisse, Spanish Paella, and Milanese Risotto. As expected it is an essential ingredient in Persian cuisine, particularly in rice dishes such as Pilaf and Shola. In India, it can also be found in rice dishes, such as Biriani, as well as meat and poultry dishes, roast lamb and desserts. Cornish cuisine also uses saffron in many dishes, including the classic saffron cake. It pairs well with seafood.

Descriptions of the taste and aroma vary. The following are some of the descriptions I came across when researching this article - deep savoury undercurrent like bay but with a persistent floral aroma; spicy, pungent, bitter taste with a long-lasting smell; hay-like fragrance and taste; metallic honey with grassy notes; and strongly perfumed with a honey aroma and a pungent bitter honey taste.

Recipe

Click here for a super easy recipe for Pasta with Shrimp, Saffron and Parsley Puree from the five course menu being presented at Angelini until the end of September in celebration of the restaurant's 4th anniversary. While Angelini is serving handmade Torcetti pasta, Chef Vittorio says that penne or rigatoni will also work. I have tried this dish and it was so delicious I could have licked the bowl clean.